Apothecary's Blog

{April 2, 2009}   Tieing them down

I use velcro to tie the racy stalks down, under the netting. This allows light into the center area of the plant and lets the lower stuff fill in the holes of the canopy. We want a dense blanket of green across the top.

Also pictured is a remote temperature sensor. Strive for 77 degrees!


{April 2, 2009}   Time for flowering

Here are the girls about a week after the move into the flower room. Looking nice and comfortable. At this point, I change the lighting schedule from 18 on/6 off to 12 on/12 off. The light change is the most important cue for the plants to flower. I also flush them with FloraClean for a watering. When they are all nice and desalted, I mix a new batch of nutes to induce flowering. This cocktail is 1 tsp/gal MagiCal, Vegan Compost Tea, FloraNecter then 1/4 tsp/gal M.O.A.B. (to induce flower…Open Sesame is another good one) and then equal parts Flora Nova veg and bloom formulas. Gradually bring the EC up to 1300-1500 and adjust the ph to 5.8-6.3. I always use r/o water as it has a very low EC to begin with. This allows you to pack in the maximum amount of controlled components.

{April 2, 2009}   Some decent work

Glass-on-glass with some fancy swirls.

{April 2, 2009}   New Bong

Charlie, the world. World, meet Charlie.

{April 2, 2009}   Break time

Time for a medicine break! Nothing tastes better than your own well-grown, well-flushed, well-cured flowers!

{April 2, 2009}   Panda Plastic rocks!

I love panda plastic. It is thick, durable, reflective plastic and is fare easier to work with than mylar. Here I have lined the frame with it to minimize lumins lost.

{April 2, 2009}   Adjusting to their final home

The girlies are a little stressed out from the move here. Before they get established, I tend to water them more. At the first sign of floppy leaves, I water. After they are established, I let about half of them get a little floppy before I water. They usually go on the timer (15 minutes every 24 hours) when they have been in there for a week or two. I veg them in the flower chamber until the tips reach the bottom of the net.

At this point, they have been topped twice. Topping is a pruning technique used to increase the amount of top flowers. It is done by cutting the top branch right above a growth node at a 45 degree angle.

I use a technique called supercropping as well. This is done by pinching the stalk between growth nodes to produce scar tissue. More scar tissue means stronger stalks, which will support heavier buds.

{April 2, 2009}   More sexy mamas

An upskirt shot of the moms.

{April 2, 2009}   Training Moms

I train my mother plants to get the most heads out of them. This involves tieing the tops down to the main stalk. This makes the plants short and bushy, which is what we’re looking for. Gently bend the branch, sort of wrapping it around your thumb, breaking the stalk fibers. If it snaps, that’s okey as long as there is a significant portion still attached. The plants will develop scar tissue and will be stronger in the long run.

{April 2, 2009}   Mamas

I currently have four mother plants that I take cuttings from. Moms stay in veg and are only used to make lots of short, young babies to flower. They stay on a 1,500 EC nute mix…I don’t need them to grow very fast, so I don’t push them. Three are in 6″ rockwool cubes and the one that I am keeping long-term is in a 6″ rockwool cube and Foxfarm’s Ocean Forrest soil with added perlite for breatheability. My last mom was in a hydrofarm setup that roomie let dry up and die 😦 so I opted for a soil buffer to try to counter the roomie factor.

et cetera